Blurry can be good!
This is where I pretend I know what I’m doing.
I get asked a lot by people who see me shooting at events what settings I’m shooting with, particularly around shutter speeds. I know photographers who are all across the board in this respect. Some shoot very fast shutters because it allows them to freeze the action with a very high ‘keep’ rate, some shoot with verrrrrry slow shutters which is much much harder but the one shot in a hundred that came out look great. Myself I try to be somewhere in the middle, generally around 1/160 for a panning shot.
Since the differences between 1/120 and 1/160 so hard to explain let me provide some examples…
These shots were taken at a High Performance Driving School this past June at Atlantic Motorsport Park. I was on the stand in Turn 9 which is a perfect spot for panning shots. The track wraps around the stand at roughly the same distance the whole way around, cars are moving at a good speed and the background is busy but not ugly.
Here’s a Mazdaspeed 3 approaching turn 9 at 1/120@f9. The background is nicely blurred and the wheels convey a sense of motion. Personally I find things a little too blurry though.

Here’s the same car in about the same spot at 1/160@f11. Personally I like the motion blur this shot a bit better. The background isn’t as blurred with the panning but the wheels have more definition. To me its a more interesting look.

As a side effect of going a with a faster shutter, my ‘keeper’ rate is miles better at 1/160 vs 1/120 as well using my 70-200 f4L lens at full zoom. Remember, the rule of thumb for handheld shooting is “Shutter = 1/Focal Length” unless you have very steady hands or good panning technique so I’m right in the ballpark.
These shots were taken in ‘Manual’ mode on a Canon EOS 40D with a Canon 70-200 f4L lens.
Another thing to keep in mind is that these slow shutters work best on a side-on pan where the car is always roughly the same distance away as it moves. If the car is moving towards or away from you it has the chance to get closer/further during the time your shutter is open making for a blurry shot. If you’re dealing with a subject head on you should generally increase shutter accordingly. 1/250 or 1/320 are generally ’safe’. Just to be more maddening this also very much depends on the speed of the car as well. A car doing 30km/h around a rallycross course is going to have different rules of thumb from an F1 car doing 300km/h in a straight. It makes the head hurt sometimes.
I often have a hard time planning for a scene, which is something I’m very much working on getting better at. I’ve improved at looking at what the cars are doing and associating the desired results in my head with a rule of thumb for settings. It takes a lot of hit or miss shooting and paying attention to what works. You have to keep in mind lighting, perspective, backgrounds, depth of field, speeds, framing and more all at once. And to make it more fun these factors can change from minute to minute, particularly at an event like Targa Newfoundland where every car and driver is completely different.
Also bear in mind with all of this that I’m basically raving my own uneducated opinions out there. These are just things I’ve taught myself over the last few years of shooting with more manual cameras. I learn by trial and error and I’m a very seat-of-the-pants shooter. I’m sure there’s better ways to do and think about these shots, but this is how I do it.
That… probably wasn’t helpful at all, was it? ![]()
























